Sébastien Meunier seemed to Nijinsky in “Afternoon of a Faun” for the sensuality of his men’s assortment. To strains of Debussy, out came extensive-limbed silhouettes of dancers on- and off-duty. Lush and tactile resources — shearlings remaining uncooked-edged, cloudy knits, moiré velvets — contrasted with exact tailoring. A handful of nymph-like feminine seems to be dotted the lineup but the difference felt tenuous. To wit, a gown coat in a pastel velvet or lace shirting would attractiveness regardless of any labeling. Chunky boots gave these characters a plausible on-the-streets angle. “Man, girl, it does not issue,” he said.
WWD Critique: Languid fluidity and the romance inherent to Ann Demeulemeester made available an intriguing contribution to the season’s discussion about masculinity.
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